Leaving Alaska we entered back into Canada via the most northerly border point between the two countries and took the Top of the World Highway to Dawson City where we spent a couple of nights preparing for the Dempster Highway.

Dawson City is in the heart of the Klondike and the goldrush of the late 19th century.  Much of the old town is now a tourist destination and great fun to visit.

Whilst here we took the “SourToe Challenge” at the Sourdough Saloon in the Downtown Hotel.  This involves knocking back a shot containing a pickled toe and to succeed the toe has to touch your lips!  

There are two main northerly starting points for the Pan-American: Deadhorse near Prudhoe Bay in Alaska or Tuktoyaktuk in Northwest Territories, both of which require miles of driving on mud and gravel roads. The latter is the only place of the two where the road goes right to the  Arctic Ocean so that was the route we took.

It took us three full days of driving through ever changing landscapes to travel from Dawson City to Tuktoyaktuk.  We had seen plenty of warnings about the trucks which thunder up and down the highway but we had no issues with them and found them to be more considerate than other road users.  We’re also pleased to say we made the whole trip with he windscreen and tyres in tact!

Tuktoyaktuk is a small Inuvialuit town which until 2017 was not accessible by road.  It is gradually opening up to tourists but is still very quiet and we had four very peaceful nights parked up by the ocean.  

The road was as everything we expected, a total of 1,700km of mud, dust, ruts,  teeth crunching and bone juddering washboard and frost heave sections, but a stunning drive and a great way to start our Pan-Am adventure.

After we completed the Dempster, we spent a few days amongst the residual ponds from former gold claims to clean up the van whilst watching the beavers.  

It’s always good meeting up with other travellers, exchanging stories and talking all things travel and this part of our trip was very social! We’ve done coffee, beers and BBQs with the Travelling Caldwell, Pepeletour, Passion4Patina and Milaontour4x4. With a number of vans doing the same trip as us, it’s likely our paths will cross again further down the road.

Motorhoming 

For this section we did use a few paid sites, especially in towns and national/provincial parks.  On the whole advance reservations at this time of year are essential but we have managed to find basic pitches at a few days notice.

Gold Rush Campground, Dawson City: CAD46.20 p/n no hook up. Very little space between pitches which are mostly gravel but great location for exploring the former goldrush town.  Dumping point and fresh water available on site as well as a small laundry which is open to non-residents.

Tuktoyaktuk Municipal camping: CAD31.50 p/n.  A area of land at the end of the town converted by residents to a camping area.  No fixed spaces but all the parking is by the sea on mostly gravel but definitely not level! Water and some power available.  Random benches and fire pits. RV dump is outside the town but it didn’t look too savoury!

We used the service point outside Happy Valley Territorial Park to empty grey and take on fresh water.

Pelly Crossing Campground: free campground by the river run by the local First Nation tribe.  Parking is in the trees and pitches have benches and fire pits.

Fuel prices varied considerably and as expected were higher, the further north we went.  We paid between £1.10 and £1.66 a litre but with limited supplies on the Dempster it was a price we were willing to pay.

We’re using iOverlander on a daily basis to find park ups, water, dumps, LPG (propane) and laundromats.