This entry is titled as such as we loosely followed a tour with the same name in our Lonely Planet guidebook taking a large loop around the northern central highlands. This area takes in colonial cities, Mayan ruins and beautiful natural spots.
We began by spending New Year in San Miguel de Allende, a former colonial town now inhabited by artists and North American expats. The orange hued houses and cobbled streets make this a great place to wander around or just sit in the main square, drink coffee and watch the world go by.
We went to the main square for the New Year celebrations and the Mexicans certainly know how to party!
The next colonial city was Guanajuato, a former centre for gold and silver mining nestled in a steep sided valley. Whilst in the town we encountered some of the Three Kings Day celebrations – lots of music, dancing and parades in this case.
Puebla is known for its Talavera tiles which have created some of the most decorated churches we have seen and for its mole, a sauce made of a blend of chillies, nuts and other spices. The typical mole here is brown, rather than the black Oaxacan version, using raisins to sweeten the dish rather than chocolate.
The geology of Mexico with its volcanic history has created stunning scenery and many spots for outdoor swimming, either in cenotes, flooded limestone caves, or in thermal rivers.
Our first spot was at Puente de Dios, a cenote with a collapsed roof so open to the sky. We didn’t swim here as it was raining and comparatively cold, but we did explore some of the site on foot.
Our next stop was El Salto, but unfortunately for us our timing was off and the water which cascades over the waterfall was literally turned off by the hydroelectric company at the end of the falls.
We headed to the town of Tanchachin, driving mile after mile through fields full of sugar cane. From here we took a boat trip to the Cascadas de Tamul where the water was definitely flowing. It’s a trip we really enjoyed but word of warning, you have to row the boat yourself! The boats usually take a minimum of 8 passengers but we were with just two others so had to work a little harder to get to the falls.
A little off the beaten track is the Sótano de las Golondrinas, the largest known cave shaft in the world and the second deepest pit in Mexico, which twice a day is witness to the fight of thousands of white-collared swifts. Just after dawn they slowly spiral out of the cave and fly away, and just before dusk, they return. We paid to enter twice to see both events.
The gardens of Las Pozas, near Xilitla, are the creation of eccentric Englishman Edward James. He took inspiration from many sources to construct weird and wonderful concrete structures in the jungle. The site was left to decline but is now slowly being restored and definitely worth a visit.
The Grutas de Tolantongo is a real tourist attraction (and charges accordingly) but we visited midweek when it is considerably quieter. The site consists of caves, thermal pools and a warm, blue river along with shops and restaurants. We try to avoid busy places but we couldn’t not visit here!
We found Mexico’s version of the Giant’s Causeway in the San Miguel Regla area. The Prismas Basálticos are in a large park and you are able to walk in next to the columns.
Reading about the region’s mining history we were surprised to find references to Cornwall (yes the one in the UK). The miners came over to share their expertise in the gold and silver mines but also bought with them, the Cornish pasty. The pasty continues to be eaten today, although now containing fillings to suit Mexican tastes, and at the Museo del Paste, you can make your own and leave it to bake whilst you take a tour of the museum.
For some Mayan history we headed to the east of Mexico City, to Teotihuacan, the region’s most significant archaeological site. We didn’t take a guide but as many of the information boards are also in English we don’t feel we missed anything. The site consists of three pyramids, the Pirámide del Sol, the Pirámide de la Luna and the Templo de Quetzalcoatl, linked y the Calzada de los Muertos, the Avenue of the Dead.
The following morning we took a sunrise hot air balloon trip over the site (not expensive we thought at about £95 each which included, for us a flight of 45 minutes, tea/coffee with biscuits beforehand and a buffet breakfast afterwards). This was definitely the way to see the entire Teotihuacan site and appreciate it’s splendour.
We also tried to visit the Pirámide Tepanapa in Cholula. This pyramid is the world’s largest yet it looks nothing more than a small hill which is because almost the entire building is underground. Unfortunately when we visited the tunnels into the pyramid were closed but we did walk up to the 16th century Santuario Nuestra Señora de los Remedios Catholic church which sits atop the pyramid.
Campsites used
San Miguel de Allende RV Park and Tennis Courts: MXP500 p/n for a fully serviced, gravel pitch. This is expensive by Mexican standards but has a well kept shower/toilet block and is in an ideal location for walking into town, so worth the extra money in our opinion. Entrance is a bit tight through the small streets and larger rigs should follow the instructions on iOverlander as to the best route in.
Morrill RV Park, Guanajuato: MXP300 p/n with electric and water available on some pitches. Has a decent shower and toilet block. This is nothing more than a car park really and vans are packed in and some areas are on quite a slope. However again it is within walking distance of the town centre; downhill all the way there and definitely a workout on the way back if you don’t take a taxi.
Campamento Puente de Dios: MXP260 p/n but we’re not sure what this actually should have included as the one person we saw wasn’t very communicative! It’s a forested site and it was raining so we didn’t venture too far from the entrance gate (also needed no trees for Starlink!). We had intended to stay for two nights but the weather was showing no sign of improving so after visiting the cenote we moved on.
Campamento Tiempo & Espacio, Tanchachin: MXP200 p/n including water and electric. We received a really warm welcome to this little site nestled in amongst sugar cane plantations.The pitch was grass so a little muddy after the rain and we were able to use blocks to even out the slope. They were great in helping us sort our trip to the Cascadas de Tamul and provided lunch for us when we returned which prompted an unexpected cooking and spice lesson from Lucy, one of the owners. The town has a good selection of restaurants all within easy walking distance.
Casa James Hotel, Spa & Museum, Xilitla: MXP300 to park overnight in the hotel car park which is close to Las Pozas. There is a toilet block in the car park and we spent a quiet night there.
Grutas de Tolantongo: MXP50 per day to park which allows for an overnight stay but on top of that it is MXP230 per person entry each day and a two night stay actually means three days of charges. Camping for vans is in the car park so no facilities but the wider site has toilets, showers, water, small stores and restaurants. We had a great couple of days there but best to avoid weekends when it gets very busy.
Prismas Basalticos Ecopark, Regla: MXP100 per person, per day entry. Like several other attractions, overnight parking is allowed in the car park and there is a grassy camping area but you pay for two days’ entry. The park has toilets, showers, a swimming pool area, shops and restaurants. We had a quiet night once the bars closed (about 11pm).
Teotihuacán Trailer Park: MXP300 p/n including water and electric. Parking is on grass. Site is a little bit messy with some old vehicles there as well as some vans in storage but the owner is really friendly and helpful and the site is within easy walking (3km flat) of the ruins.
Other park ups
Pemex fuel station near Ráyon: Free. We stayed overnight at the back of the fuel station to break up a long drive. There were a few dogs around but it was a quiet night.
El Salto car park: Free. We asked to stay overnight after visiting the waterfall and it wasn’t a problem. The site was very quiet.
Cave of the Swallows car park: Free. When we visited it was very quiet and we were able to stay in the small roadside parking area next to the cave entrance. We were on quite a slope however!
Pemex Fuel station near Zimapán: MXP50 – not sure if this was an official fee or it went straight into the attendant’s pocket but for £2 we were happy to pay it to break up another long driving day. We parked at the rear of the fuel station and had a quiet night.
Pirámide Tepanapa car park, Cholula: MXP200 per night. One of the car parks for the pyramid allows overnight parking. It has toilets and the attendants are very keen to offer car washing, at a price!
Walmarts car park, Tehuacan: Free. It’s a Walmart car park so not much to say other than it was surprisingly quiet!
Jardín Botánico Zapotitlán Salinas: MXP200 per night. This is part of a larger nature reserve and we were able to park in the area of the cabins. No services but very quiet and amazing dark skies for stargazing.