The following morning we went for a walk up along the track which ran behind the campsite and up the mountain where we had spectacular views of the valley in which Chefchaouen is nestled.  The afternoon was spent trying, unsuccessfully, to avoid the heat as it is apparently unusually hot for this time of year – temperatures are around the mid 30sC  during the day although the evenings are considerably cooler and sleeping is not difficult.  Another group meal, this time at Casa Aladin which is set on four floors overlooking the main town square and again ridiculously cheap at Dh85 (£6.50) each for a three course set menu.

Fri 10th and up early for the journey to tonight’s wild camping beside a lake.  As the crow flies this is a journey of no more than 50miles but with the bulk of Rif Mountains in the way and lack of decent roads this becomes 150miles which takes 5 1/2 hours.  The driving is, shall we say, a little on the iffy side; no thoughts about lanes, overtaking into oncoming traffic on blind bends, the road shrinking to one vehicle wide……

The scenery continues to be breathtaking as the road winds its way up and down and around the mountains.  We drive through Bab-Berret where people, cars and cattle cross the road as they want.

Lunch was at Ketama and literally at a roadside butchers; you have to go through the carcasses hanging outside to get into the seating area where we had freshly made lamb keftas and cutlets.

The road continued through the Rif and we headed towards Ourtzarh across a bridge; well I say bridge….it was one lane wide, just, and in places the river below can be seen through the holes in the boards.

The campsite that night was on the banks of a lake with just donkeys and sheep for company.  However given the intensity of the driving it was an early night all round just after a beautiful sunset across the lake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We left the madness of the border and headed to Martil and Camping Al Boustame – no real change to the campsite since the last time (no shower heads and only one proper loo with a bucket of water instead of a chain) but the town itself has had millions spent on it;  the promenade along the front could be any resort in Europe of wide pavements edged with cafes.

A little admin done and it was time for our first proper mint tea….nothing quite like it.  Most of the group decided to have dinner at the onsite restaurant that night. We had the swordfish which had been delivered fresh that afternoon and was cooked to perfection.  It was take your own booze so the two course meal for the two of us was the vast sum of £24!

Not so early start this morning before heading into the Rif  Mountains via the supermarket and petrol station; at today’s exchange rate fuel here is about 64p per litre so we will try to leave the country will a full tank!  It was our first trip into the Rif that started our fascination with Morocco – everywhere is so green and the scenery is stunning.

The stop for tonight (Wed 8th) is Chefchauoen, the “Blue Town” and a favourite site based on location (don’t think we’d ever rate a site here on facilities!).  After the usual briefing meeting to orientate everyone to the campsite and the town (and this time with the extra of cake to celebrate several birthdays) it was a short walk into the maze of the town.  The four of us (we’re here with Penny and Chris who we met on the last trip) got totally lost trying to get to the main square.  We were finally shown the way after Chris promised a shop owner he would visit again tomorrow to buy something – sadly we are busy in the morning! A quick wander around the town and it was time to watch the crowds with a mint tea. a pattern we’ll repeat in most towns.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So here we are four years on from when first thought about coming back to Morocco (that was actually half way through  our last trip in 2009 with www.desertdetours.com).  Due to work we leave the UK on the evening of Friday 3rd May and have to be at the meeting point near San Roque in southern Spain by lunchtime on Monday.  After a bum-numbing 1953km and 21 hours driving time we make it with time to spare. For those interested we stayed at the Aire Baix de la Somme, Abbeville on Friday and Aire Bidart, Bayonne on Saturday.  Sunday night was in a nameless service station to the south of Seville, having taking the more picturesque route through Spain via Salamanca and not Madrid.  With time against us we had to stick to the toll roads at a cost of almost €180 but they are empty so well worth it.

After the hours spent travelling over the weekend the quick 90 minute hop over Los Alcornocales on Monday morning into Algeciras was nothing!  A little shopping to top the cupboards up and ensure the wine cellar is fully stocked (Morocco is a dry country), then it’s off to the meeting point at Casa Bernardos, another well used restaurant/service station/lorry park to join up with our fellow travellers and the tour leaders.  A smaller group this time with just seven vans plus Steve our leader/guide.  Ray is with us to begin with and will then disappear to do a recce of Eastern Morocco for future possible tours before catching up with us later in the trip.

After a sleepless night (lorries coming and going, dogs barking) it’s a 6.45 start to get to the port for the 8am ferry.  We only lose two vans on the way to the port but they soon find us and it’s a gentle crossing to Ceuta and the dreaded border crossing into Morocco.  It’s quite difficult to describe the chaos at the border and you cannot take photographs; there are just bodies and vehicles everywhere!  Moroccans shop in Ceuta which is still part of Spain so cars and people are constantly being stopped to see who and what in going in and out of the country.  Three marked lanes become about five cars wide and some cars are doing U-turns as they are turned away from entering Morocco for who knows why. Lots of men want to “assist” us with immigration and the van importation but for a fee of course.  And to top everything else the port is undergoing major reconstruction so there are workmen and dust to add the the usual melee.  However Ray has taken care of all the necessary “expediting payments” and after an hour or so of watching the chaos we’re through and the trip can begin……

…. the day has arrived. We have both been like 8 year olds in the way we have been looking forward to this trip. I can’t recall being like this for the 2009 trip to Morocco, but maybe we were.

Stopped at a garage to top up the gas system and tyres. While there I was approached by 2 separate people asking about the Motorhome. My answer, as always, is…. If you have thought about it do some serious research and go for it.

I left early for Ashford, where I will be meeting June, as I just wanted to get around the M25. A lot of people knock the London Orbital motorway but if I’m honest I have only been caught in tailbacks a couple of times. And I didn’t want this to be another.

It did mean I had to stop off at services once or twice for a Costa. It’s a tough life we live.

We the departure date is getting closer. With my eldest son moving in Thursday so the house is occupied although it s a bit further for him to drive I feel better knowing he will be here watch the place….

 

Penny and Chris have already left for a steady drive down to the South of Spain. Ours will be a little less sedate though as we leave Friday :).