A little behind in getting this trip up.  Took advantage of the C-19 Lock-down to get up to date

Photo Album

The mission to see the Northern Lights continues and we find ourselves back in Iceland for a long weekend with our good friends Sarah and Colin.  Having covered the Reykjavik area and the south coast during our last trip, this time we were heading north of the capital to a lodge on a hillside not too far from the town of Borganes.  

The recent weather had been quite stormy (and that’s stormy by Icelandic standards!) with the airport being closed at one point but we arrived safely.  First stop was for the essential supplies:

Having picked up the rental car, a 4 x 4 was essential, it was a relatively calm drive from the airport to Borganes for lunch and a trip to the supermarket to stock up on food.  Iceland is very expensive so the plan was to eat at home as much as possible and keep the eating out to lunchtime only.  

Although the weather was calm, there had been recent snowfall and arriving at the property we couldn’t get right to the top of the driveway to unload the car!

We’d picked a remote house this time to stay away from the city lights in the hope of getting the best view should the Lights come out to play.  The house had stunning views across the Borgarfjörður and we’d get to see them, or not as the case may be, in all weather conditions. The hot tub was also on the to do list.

An early start the following morning to get to Þingvellir National Park so as we could go snorkelling, yes snorkelling, in the water of the Silfra fissure, one of the cracks in the rift valley between the European and American tectonic plates.  This was one of Bob’s bucket list items and with a big birthday coming up, it seemed a good time to do this. The weather was closing in again with another storm on its way and when we arrived we were told that all tours were being moved up to the morning so people could get out of the park before the storm hit.  Didn’t sound good!

 

We were told to wear full thermals and thick socks which we did and were provided with a dry suit, gloves, mask, snorkel and fins.  The water temperature was 2ºC but because they were trying to squeeze everyone into the morning session, we had to wait for a couple of hours before getting in the water and that was bloody freezing!  Getting into the water was an actual relief and the only area of skin exposed, the face, soon goes numb.  

The experience was amazing and we would highly recommend it.  The water is so clear

After a quick lunch in Reykjavik we hightailed it back to the house to sit out the storm – we had intended to go snowmobiling on a glacier the following day but that had been cancelled.  With nothing much else to do that day it seemed a good thing to drink red wine and watch out of the window.

The weather had cleared the following morning so it was in the car and off to explore a bit more of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula on the west coast.  We stopped at an amazing cafe near Arnarstapi for a warming homemade meat soup and coffee. It was like sitting in someone’s front room from years gone by.  

We also walked along some of the wild coastline between Stepi and Hellnar.

From there it was on to Vatnshellir where there is a 8,000 year old lava tube which lies underground.  You can only go underground with a guide and whilst this wouldn’t be the only reason to visit the area, if you’re in the area it’s something different to do.

We continued driving round the perimeter of the peninsula passing Kirkjufell which would be well known to fans of Game of Thrones (not us!).

Tonight was hot tub night.  Bob braved the cold (something like -8ºC with the windchill!) to fill the tub.  Hot water is in plentiful supply throughout Iceland as it comes from geothermal sources in the ground.  All that was needed after that was to open the Prosecco. Cheers!

For our last full day we went north towards Hvitserkur, a sea stack which according to legend was a troll caught by the sunrise while attempting to destroy the monastery at Þingeyrar.  Great fun getting down to the beach as well!

Driving back we had a little problem with one of the roads being closed by a landslide so Bob had to reverse back to be able to turn around.  Doesn’t sound so bad but then I should add that the road had an 18% slope, was mountainside and just one vehicle wide…. A few nervous moments but it takes a lot to faze Bob!

We had to return to the airport late the following afternoon so on the way back we headed to the mighty Gullfoss which even when partially frozen is still a breathtaking sight.

GullfossOne last detour took us to Kerið, a 6,500 year old explosion crater.  

Another amazing trip to this fascinating country and we still want to come back again but probably the next trip will be a summer one and maybe a Route 1 road trip around the island.  As for the Northern Lights….well they continued to evade us, or did they? When we got home we found this on one of the cameras:

Not seen by the naked eye but definitely there!  But we now have the perfect excuse for next year’s trip.  Norway or Finland here we come. 

 

Until we get some text up here is a map of our travels.

A few photos of the trip

When our 2010 trip was rudely interrupted by a certain volcano bringing the world to a standstill, Iceland had always been on the list for sooner rather than later.  A chat with friends earlier in the year bought it further forward when they said they fancied a weekend away and somewhere they wouldn’t normally go – so Iceland it was!  So six months planning became a 4am taxi to Luton Airport for our delux Easyjet flight to Reykjavik and at 9am on Thursday morning we touched down in Keflavik with a mission to see as much of the island as possible before we left again late Monday afternoon. One of the major decisions we agonised over was car hire as we had read nightmare stories about the car hire companies in Iceland.  We booked through www.holidayautos.co.uk who were far cheaper than all the major and local companies (something which immediately aroused suspicion) but had no issues with them and their local agent Thrifty.  We hired a Ford Kuga (great for four adults and luggage) and after a walk round with the agent to inspect the car it was off into the lava fields on the main road to Reykjavik.  Driving in Iceland is pretty simple and if you want to go anywhere outside the capital you are going to use the only motorway, Route 1 which runs around the island with a spur off to the airport in the south west corner. Accommodation had been easy to book – we used www.redappleapartments.com and the choice was huge (and for those who cannot be without the internet, yes us, most had free wifi).  After a slight hiccup in collecting the keys which resulted in us finding our way around Reykjavik a little more quickly than we anticipated after walking across town and back again, we found our apartment which was ideally located at the quieter end of the main street, Laugavegur, so close to the shops, bars and restaurants. So all settled in, it was time to start the weekend properly – find a bar!  Place of choice was the Lebowski Bar, an American diner and bowling alley styled place (coincidentally the film The Great Lebowski is one of June’s favourite films) for happy hour.  Before the financial crisis drinking in Iceland was ridiculously expensive (wine still not cheap so we bought some duty free on arrival at Keflavik) but current exchange rates have made it no different to a night out in London. After a few beers food was required and with Bob keen to try some local delicacies, we found the ideal place:

None of us was keen to try whale on principle but the boys went for the puffin menu.  We all tried a bit, as you have to, and of the four of us Bob was the only one who said he’d have it again! Up early again Friday morning with the plan to head to Jokulsarlon, a 400km drive from Reykjavik, to the glacier lagoon where icebergs break away from Europe’s largest icecap and head out to sea. However as started to head over the higher ground on Route 1 to the south east of Reykjavik, visibility was almost non-existent so it was decided to go to plan B and not risk five hours in the car (each way!) with not being able to see a thing.  At this point we didn’t actually have a plan B so there was nothing for it but find a coffee shop (#clewleystopsforcoffee knows no geographical boundaries!) and get the maps and guidebooks out.  Plan B turned out to be waterfall day with the falls getting gradually more spectacular as the day went on – we couldn’t have planned it better if we tried!  Stop 1 was Seljalandsfoss where you can walk behind the curtain of water running off the Eyjafjallajokul icecap (yes, that volcano again).

From there it was on to Skogafoss where the water plunges around 60m onto the gravel and ash – the noise and force of the water is amazing.  There is also a staircase here up the side of the fall to a platform at the top where as well as a great view of the waterfall, you can also see the coast but the weather wasn’t on our side for that.

Our final waterfall was Gullfoss, part of The Golden Circle of tourist attractions and certainly one of the most spectacular.

Continuing the water theme we moved on to the hot springs at Geysir.  Geysir itself doesn’t do too much at the moment but Strokkur erupts every few minutes and if you’re standing

in the wrong place then it’s time for a soaking!  The colours of the pools are an incredible shade of blue with all the dissolved minerals they hold.

Back in Reykjavik for dinner but nothing quite so exotic tonight – pasta and burgers at Restaurant 73.  Great food serving locally brewed beers.  Highly recommended. Saturday’s trip was to the Snaefellsjokull National Park on the west coast.  The weather was better today and we were able to see the ever changing scenery – moss covered lava fields, soaring volcanoes and snow capped mountains.  All being keen photographers (between us we had 5 cameras and 4 phones on us at all times and then of course an additional phone plus 4 iPads in the apartment!) every car journey was probably 50% longer that it should be as we were constantly stopping to take snaps.  We drove around the peninsula on the coast road and had great fun on the north coast just trying to get out of the car in the wind.  The coast here is wild and rugged and the wind whips across the northern Atlantic – great to look at though when sitting somewhere warm and dry although that sadly turned out only to be the car as most places seem to have closed up for the winter (this was the second weekend in October). We decided that on the way back we go via Pingvellir National Park, the third part of the Golden Circle with Gullfoss and Geysir.  Having checked the map there was a clear road labelled “Major route” however June missed the most vital words – “loose surface”….  Having no

idea if we were insured or not (insurance is very specific on the types on road you can drive on and this road was a mixture of black top and condensed gravel) we drove very gingerly for about 60km arriving at Pingvellir just as the light was starting to fade.  We did however get to see where Iceland is literally ripping apart as the North American and European tectonic plates move away from each other. With a forecast of good weather for Sunday it was up before dawn to do the long drive over to Jokulsarlon and what a difference a couple of

days made!  We were able to see for miles and in addition to the lava and mountains, we drove through the ashfields of the 2010 eruption and had clear views through to  Eyjafjallajokul with its white cap stunning against the bright blue sky.  As we moved further east we drove through mile after mile of black ash but only at one point is the road still under repair – quite a miracle really considering the devastation caused.  Plant life is just starting to grow but it’s still very bleak until you get towards Skaftafell National Park where tongues of the glacier flow through gaps in the mountain out on to the plains.. The sat nav said 4.5 hours for this journey but you can imagine the number of stops for pictures (and coffee of course) but nothing prepared us for the final bend in the road as we approached Jokulsarlon.

Despite spending almost 6 hours on the road, there was a collective gasp from the car as we saw the icebergs on the lagoon.  Lunch was a quick affair as we wanted to get out on the amphibious boat on the lagoon – well worth doing at about £20 per person for about 45 minutes spent out on the water.  You get a little history and geology thrown in and the chance to taste 1000 year old ice straight out of the water.  From there it was down to the beach where the icebergs who escape the lagoon find themselves.  Words cannot describe the beauty of this place – black sand, grey seas and blue/white icebergs and I hate to think how many pictures we have but the location was well worth the journey and I would put this place at the top of places to see in Iceland.  It took a lot to drag ourselves away but it had to be done as dinner had to be found somewhere on the route home.  We ate a few times in service stations and were amazed at the standard of food – no plates sitting under hot lamps and everything cooked to order!

Our final morning was spent at the Blue Lagoon on the way to the airport; no need to worry about hauling home wet towels as everything (including swimwear is required) can be hired.  We had wanted to do some shopping before leaving but it seems people in Reykjavik are not early risers and nothing opens until 10/11am but leaving a bit earlier meant our timing for the Blue Lagoon was perfect with no queues and plenty of room in the changing rooms (this had totally reversed by the time we left as coach loads had arrived).  This is a great place to chill out (if we come back again June might have to find an excuse for one of the spa treatments) and there’s even a bar in the middle of the pool but as we were leaving around 12.30 it was getting very busy.

It’s only a short hop from the Blue Lagoon back to the airport for some shopping, lunch and maybe a glass or two of wine or beer before boarding our Icelandair light home (it was no more expensive to use different airlines for each leg and the timings worked out better doing so). From the dials on the car, we covered around 2000km in our short time in Iceland but loved every moment of it.  Will we go back?  Yes hopefully as there is still so much more to see and do.  We’d like to do some walking next time and actually get out on one of the glaciers, and maybe a dip in one of the geothermally heated outdoor pools.  Our one disappointment was not seeing the Northern Lights and Sod’s Law being what it is, the display was spectacular the night we left and was so good the following night that they switched the lights off in Reykjavik so everyone could see them in their glory.