We picked up the Alaska Highway again at Watson Lake following it all the way to “Mile 0” at Dawson Creek (we did it backwards!). 

By this time our route was being determined by wildfires and we did have to take Jasper off the itinerary after the devastating fire there.

Although the clock was ticking on our time in Canada we still had for a couple of diversions so stopped at Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park where we were lucky enough to secure one of the last camp spots for a couple of nights.  Camping here comes with free unlimited access to the hot springs and we spent a couple of hours soaking in the waters.

We were on a bit of a dash south but broke up one of the driving days with a stop at the Ancient Forest in the Columbia Mountains, a temperate rainforest located 800km from the ocean!  We came across this on Atlas Obscura – a great app for finding weird and wonderful places across the world. 

By not going to Jasper, our route took us past Wells Gray Provincial Park where we stayed a couple of nights.  The park is great for hiking and there are so many waterfalls. 

We crossed the provincial border into Alberta and headed to Banff, one of the main tourist spots in the Canadian Rockies. 

We chose to walk into town one day, about 5km mostly downhill and on a marked path, to explore Banff more and whilst busy, it wasn’t unbearable. Whilst known as a skiing centre, there is plenty to see in the summer and by the time we took the bus back to the campsite we were exhausted!

From the town centre we took the tour bus, about 50 mins each way,  to Lake Louise to see the famous turquoise lake – it didn’t disappoint!  There is free RV parking (day use only) near the station in Banff and from there it’s a short walk to the transport hub. 

Johnston Canyon was also worth a side trip but an early start is needed in order to secure an RV parking space! We’ve taken to getting on the road early and having breakfast once we’re parked.  We can then take our time.

For all things in the Banff area forward planning is highly recommended. Being on the road we didn’t know exactly what days we’d be there so left it late to book anything – our four night stay at the campsite was split over two pitches and the timing of the buses only gave us two hours at the lake.

At the visitor centre in Banff we were advised that some of the Icefield Parkway had reopened and whilst we could still not get all the way to Jasper, we could now get to the Columbia Icefield Visitor Centre.

It feels like we’re always saying this, but this really was one of the most spectacular drives we have done! The road cuts through huge mountains, many of them topped by glaciers.  We ran out of superlatives to describe what we were seeing.

On our way to the US border we stopped at a trail head for the Paint Pots (another Atlas Obscura find!). We weren’t sure what we were heading to and a short walk took us to two small ponds and lots of mineral filled red/orange mud.

Sadly that was the end of our time in Canada and it’s somewhere that we’d certainly come back to. Next stop was Montana to see some new to us parts of the USA.

Motorhoming 

On the whole we are using free overnight spots but did use the following:

Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park: CAD26 p/n no services but water and toilets in campground (although water tap was out of order when we visited).  Forest site and some large pitches were shared. Camping fee includes unlimited access to the natural hot springs.

Falls Creek Campground, Wells Gray Provincial Park: CAD23 p/n plus CAD6 p/n reservation fee. Forest site with a number of pitches by the river.

Tunnel Mountain Campground Number 1,  Banff: CAD30.50 p/n no services.  A forested campsite with water and dumping facilities.  A free shuttle bus will take you into town but it costs CAD2 per adult to return to the campground.  

We’re using iOverlander on a daily basis to find park ups, water, dumps, LPG (propane) and laundromats.